This is a fascinatingly composed wine. 85% is a stainless-steel fermented blend hailing from Cramant, Chouilly and Le Mesnil from the years 2016 and 2017. The balance is a “solera” of reserve wines from the same villages, aged in 40 hl. casks, composed of all the years between 2009 and 2016. With dosage at 4 gm., the effect is dry but not austere, with the oak-aged component adding subtle roundness and depth to the plangent harmonies of the base. A palpably big-time champagne for a modest premium.