Grown from 25-plus year-old vines in a mostly volcanic, south-facing “Premier Cru” vineyard in Jechtingen, this wine shows all the virtues of Bercher’s over-performing basic Pinot on a grander and more imposing scale. Its seriousness, however, detracts in no way from the innate sweetness of the fruit, which hauls you right into the wine’s beating heart of stone. The 2013 is easing into its prime. The 2015 is a declamatory Pinot, with lovely volcanic notes and a suave texture.