It would be immodest of us to claim that this is the best Rueda that money can buy, but so many satisfied customers have said it that we at least allow ourselves to repeat the compliment. It is Xavi Buil’s conviction that only pure Verdejo yields a wine true to the region. In the face of this wine’s explosively musky nose, its suave texture enlivened by vivid acidity, and its prodigious palate coverage, there is little room for argument. A benchmark if ever there was one. It is also unusually long-lived.