Santorini peers over the shoulder of every other Assyrtiko, laying down the gauntlet with its unique volcanic rendition of Greece’s most renowned grape. Well, we are here to tell you that it does beautifully at Koukos, too. Broad, austerely dry and pulsating with stony salinity, it nonetheless allows its heart of honied gold to peep through the stern and authoritative exterior, suggesting exceptional potential for development. Not to be missed.