Brothers Panagiotis and Konstantinos Koukos planted their vineyard in the late 1990s on the edge of the Strofylia wetlands in Achaia, on flat land ringed by orchards, olive groves, and pasture. It seems the brothers read the potential for vines on this ground better than the neighbors, who kept growing olives. Nothing about the setting promises great wine, which makes what comes out of it the surprise it is: bright, saline, mineral wines with an unmistakable sense of place, drawn almost entirely from indigenous Greek varieties. The farming is rigorously organic. Beneath the flats, limestone does the work the surface gives almost no hint of. Konstantinos's son Antonis has joined the founders, and the range sharpens with every vintage.