Mavrodaphne is a remarkable grape, native to this corner of Greece, Achaia. It was brought to fame by Gustav Klaus, who gave it its name, in the mid-19th century, and turned it onto one of Greece’s iconic wines – a deep-coloured, richly flavoured dessert wine. But it is equally apt, as proved here, for positively fine and shapely table wine. The huge purple colour is there, but the brilliant notion of vinification in amphora has tamed the rampant tannins and left in place a gleamingly clear and delicious wine that we were unable to resist. Nor will you!