Why do we buy so many Rieslings from Philipp? Because he manages to find cogently different expressions of this supreme grape that demand attention. This is perhaps the “saltiest” of them all. Is it fanciful to think that the one-third component aged under flor lent it a reminiscence of that most saline of all wines, Manzanilla? Aged almost three years in cask before bottling. It is a fleeting impression, before the unmistakable Mosel tone stamps itself on top. Brilliant stuff.