When Michi Moosbrugger of Schloss Gobelsburg told us he knew this "crazy guy in the Mosel" making great wines, our ears pricked up. The crazy guy, Philipp Kettern had taken over his father Lothar's estate in Piesport in 2009, and was becoming something of a Mosel iconoclast. A maniac for quality, he traded nearly all the easy, flat vineyards across the river for parcels in the steep, demanding slopes of the Goldtröpfchen bowl, including holdings in the Falkenberg, and has since expanded into the Josefsberg in Leiwen. A close family connection to Dirk Niepoort (the famed Douro producer, whose sons Daniel and Marco had lived and worked in Piesport) produced Fio, a joint project whose name means "thread" in Portuguese: dry Rieslings fermented spontaneously in old Moselfuder, aged at length on full lees, un-filtered, and pushing the envelope on low-sulfur. Under the more traditional Kettern label, Philipp offers bone-tingling, electric Mosels spanning off-dry and classically sweet selections. In short, the crazy Mosel guy offers us something of everything.