Spiegelberg is a Grosse Lage whose class shows in this dramatically fine rendition of a grape that is rarely if ever allowed to shine so brightly. The vines planted in 1968 evoke burgundy both in the wine’s pallid hue but more particularly in its sweet-salt flavor tension and the nobility of its structure. This is a game-changer. Claus has a special liking for 2017 reds because of poised wines like this.