Spiegelberg is a Grosse Lage whose class shows in this dramatically fine rendition of a grape that is rarely if ever allowed to shine so brightly. The vines planted in 1968 evoke burgundy both in the wine’s pallid hue but more particularly in its sweet-salt flavor tension and the nobility of its structure. This is a game-changer. The 2014 is all finesse and delicacy. The 2016 is in the same line, after 2015’s more robust style.