Not many growers would have the notion of consigning some of their prized Kaiserstuhl Pinot Noir grapes to a white wine, but Berchers are leaders, not followers. This is a wine of quietly authoritative expression, lissome and salty, with effective but unexaggerated acidity. Indeed, it is rather evocative of good Coteaux Champenois, albeit at a fraction of the cost! Not to be missed.