We had been buying Boeckel’s dependable “basic” Riesling since time immemorial, but decided to upgrade to the estate-grown, certified organic Midelberg wine in 2017. It has more saline quality, but still offers the engagingly forthright rusticity of its predecessor. Starting in 2018, the wine includes the fruit of young vines in the Grand Cru sites, which lends it extra class and makes this an exceptional value. The 2021 is predictably a throwback to the dry, intensely mineral vintages of yesteryear.