Pinot Noir has become increasingly important to cellar-master, Thomas Boeckel, and it is clear that he has grand aspirations for the grape, perhaps inspired by the examples of Baden, grown a few kilometers to the east. Climate change has certainly enabled him to conjure more sheer fruit sweetness from his grapes than was the case in years past. But life would be boring if Alsace did not bring its own sinewy and incisive style to this most popular and challenging of varieties. The organic farming practices certainly help to extract a cavalcade of salty flavours in the tail. Impressive and distinctive.