Hutzler is Stefan’s top vineyard, named after his grandparents, with all the vines staked on wood, as it was in their day. He usually has several vintages on offer, from Roter Veltliner and Weissburgunder as well as G.V.. But it was this magisterial vintage of Grüner Veltliner that proved irresistible. Picked on November 18, it has just entered a secondary stage where G.V. often shows an attractive toasted grain character to go with its richly elegant fruit. This is top-flight wine worth every cent of its price.