Eladio subjects this, his top selection of Albariño, to a predictably complex aging regime ; 12 months on its own lees, with regular, batonnage, three further months on the lees of vintage 2019, and then two years more in bottle before the first release in August 22. The resulting wine is rapturously lovely in its aromatic and gustatory expression, and sinuously long and resonant in its saturated finish. This is a world-class white wine by anybody’s standards.