This is the second vintage of this “ancestral method” sparkler made by Eladio (to call it a PetNat does not do justice to its stature). Like everything else he makes, it derives much of its character from a prolonged exposure to the lees during a tirage of more than three years. But the wine also enjoys a long maceration on the skins before bottling, which imparts a beguiling golden hue. It is disgorged, so cloudiness is avoided. The resulting wine has real grandeur and texture, with Albariño’s characteristic mineral expression and splendid acidity.