There is an Aladdin’s Cave quality to any visit to Renaudin. Our discovery this time was three separate lots of 2005 wines, each stemming from a particular vineyard holding. The exercise was not repeated, even though all three wines were truly excellent. But the jewel in the crown was Lot 56, which hailed from a prize parcel in Cramant that was subsequently lost after a split in the family. (More, possibly, of that anon.) The class of the origin shows through palpably in this wonderfully chiselled, vibrant and long-lasting cuvée, which has many, many years of life ahead of it.