The fogs of the Neusiedlersee, which foster the development of the botrytis intrinsic to Rust’s famous Ausbruchs, also promote other moulds that are of less noble effect. Climate change has made it harder, not easier, to cope with this hydric stress. The Schreiners have consequently become very interested in the burgeoning field of “PiWi” (the abbreviated German term for “fungus resistant”) varieties. This new wine is a blend of Weissburgunder and Stella, a resistant vine related to chardonnay, to which it bears little resemblance. We selected it not because we are eager to be in the vanguard of this new future but because, simply speaking, it is a plainly successful wine. Endowed with the familiar snap-and-crackle and saline length of a Schreiner wine, it pleases as much as it provokes. Part of the proceeds from every bottle go to a charity supporting Lebanese refugees.