Lisbon may be Portugal's capital, but the region's wines are routinely overlooked in the shadows thrown by the famed Douro and Dão, a shame given the vivid variety across its ten sub-districts. Perhaps that is why Rita and Ana Cardoso Pinto's cold call made its mark. Solicitations reach us by the week, and nearly all of them are forgettable, yet we were struck by an authenticity in Quinta do Pinto that matched the sisters themselves. Local lore holds the estate's wines once commanded a premium of one extra pinto, the eighteenth-century gold coin then in circulation. When the Cardoso Pinto family bought the property at the turn of the century, their surname sealed the coincidence. Twenty-seven grape varieties grow here, the fruit generous but retaining its shape, influenced by the cool Atlantic breeze fifteen miles away. Patience is a house virtue: the Garrafeira alone spends twelve years in the cellar before release. These wines carry a complex, noble style at prices that remain breathtakingly fair.