The Savoie region, hard by Lake Geneva, can barely produce enough to meet the demands of winter sports enthusiasts and summer hikers, but we've been lucky enough to secure one of its top estates. Abymes is a named cru in the Savoie, an old spelling of abîme, a chasm or pit, after the 1248 collapse of part of Mont Granier that left the valley strewn with rock and rubble; the vines now grow on that rockfall, and the light, aromatic wines made from them are known for carrying its stony cut. The Labbé grandfathers, a pork butcher and a builder, first planted Jacquère here on weekends to keep the family farm afloat, and cousins Alexandra and Jérôme Labbé took the domaine over in 2004, farming ten hectares to HVE3 sustainability. They keep yields low to draw full flavor from delicate grapes (including Pinot Noir and Mondeuse) while holding on to their freshness and sheer pleasure-giving gulpability.