Peter likens this grape to Pinot Noir, though it is established that it is, in fact, the same variety as the Douro’s Bastardo and the Jura’s Trousseau. Like all these wines, it has a remarkably clear fruit impression, basically one of succulent blackberries. Indeed, it could just rest on its laurels and please on that strength alone, but it has an insistent undertow of tarry earth and then a tell-tale saltiness in the finish.