There is a certain beauty in the ineluctable fact that this object lesson in “natural” wine-making (absolutely nothing added to the wine) should derive from Europe’s oldest wine culture. The sheer dimension and clarity of flavour, allied to a luxurious texture, yet all packed into an orderly frame, are breathtakingly good. There is nothing even remotely offbeat about this classy and delicious wine. Roditis is actually a dark-skinned grape which, when left to macerate as an Orange wine, takes on discernible pigmentation. Mercifully, this wine, while “natural” in every regard, has been respectfully permitted to remain “white”. The vineyard was planted in 1971, with many vines ungrafted. (Phylloxera did not arrive here, amazingly, until the 1970’s.)