Many producers have cottoned on to the predisposition of Pinot Gris to élevage in oak, but few manage the art as deftly as Hanspeter Ziereisen. There is a tenderness and vivacity to this wine that are simply elusive to most of its practitioners. The faintest hint of residual sweetness (3 grammes) imbues it with a delicious hint of voluptuousness that falls well short of the obvious. It offers us yet another individual expression of this most recalcitrant of grapes, that seems so happy in Baden