Since the 2009 vintage, Stéphane has succeeded in finding the balance in his grapes that enables him to make this wine without dosage, his Platonic ideal of how Crémant should be. What a triumph! Beyond the wine’s familiarly uncanny resemblance to champagne, it has a depth and persistence of flavor that pay tribute to the bio-dynamic regime of the domaine. Nature has been unkind to the Jura in recent years, with seemingly annual untimely frosts and hailstorms causing massive depredations. The only solace is supernal wines like this.