Ludovic is especially happy with this clasic vintage, preferring it to its predecessor. This normally pallid grape has a distinctively briary, almost foxy tone that not everyone warms to – in some ways it is like Zinfandel’s spindly but clever foreign cousin. But Ludovic has made something singular from it here – slender but innerly sweet, with an insinuating earthy flavour. This really is something completely different.