We confess to mixed feelings about the subversive quality of the Austrian GV Liter phenomenon. Is it really fair to all the other good light dry whites of the world that these people can put such absurdly tasty and characterful wines into such large bottles at such a ridiculously low price? Probably not, but let’s not look a gift horse in the mouth. Here is as good an example of the genre as you can hope to meet, with an improbable mineral charge to include among its many assets. The great majority of the fruit in this bottling is estate-grown.