Passy-Grigny is a village on the river Marne just a few kilometers to the west of Épernay which boasts a co-op that ranks with Mailly and Le Mesnil as among the elect few in Champagne. And our man M. Lequart just happens to be its President! Properly speaking, then, this producer is a Récoltant-Co-opérateur. That is to say, he delivers his grapes to the co-op which then delivers back to him a quantity of wine commensurate with them. It took us a while to fully grasp the complexities of this mechanism, and we admit to some scepticism about it, but all doubts were banished by the undeniable splendor of the wines, that have a torque and clarity of the highest order. This is a tiny domaine offering important champagnes. A recent return visit inspired us to order two new cuvées, which are due to arrive soon.