"If there is one person in the wine world that I could recommend, it is Fernando Mora, because he gives me hope for the future of the world of wine in Spain": that endorsement caught our eye because it came from none other than María José López de Heredia. Fernando, like our own Martin Reyes, is a Master of Wine, earning special distinction for his treatise on Garnacha, and together with his partner Mario López has renewed generations-old vineyards on rugged mountain slopes across the little-known region of Valdejalón, north of Calatayud. What began in an actual garage has moved to a three-level cave system, and the vineyards are now 65 hectares of organically dry-farmed Garnacha and Macabeo from 300 to 1,030 meters in altitude. Now, the name: Saint Frontonio was martyred by the Romans and his head was thrown into the Ebro;  it miraculously reappeared upstream: this wine, too, runs against the stream. It is a tribute to Fernando's intuition (against conventional wisdom) that he divined the exceptional potential of Valdejalón, whose results are, to our subjective judgment, consistently superior to anything else in Aragón.