This first-ever “parcel” cava hails from bush-trained vines planted more than 50 years ago. It is interesting to learn that 2013 was as fine a vintage for cava as it was for sekt in Germany, for similar reasons of a cool growing season and late harvest. The base wines were fermented in old chestnut barriques, and the tirage lasted a full 90 months. This is grand, strutting stuff that easily justifies its price.