Ijalba’s mission statement is to resurrect the traditional grapes of Rioja, and this wine from their 20 hectares of Graciano (the largest holding in the world) has been the flagship since they premiered the varietal bottling in 1995. Growers moved away from Graciano because of its inconveniently low yields, but the high acidity and intoxicating perfume of the grape are a huge part of what makes Rioja blends distinctive, and are more valuable than ever in these warmer times. One cannot help but notice how many imitators this forerunner now has.