One lovely aspect of our Portuguese whites is that though they mostly play in the same field - lively, snappy, unoaked - they are as different from each other as night and day. Vasco and his genius cellar-master Miguel Viseu have always revealed the fragrant beauty of Loureiro, but it seems that each vintage takes it to greater heights of delicacy and finesse. The 2020 is a poem of floral charm and mineral, Riesling-like incisiveness.