As “natural” a wine as any hipster newcomer, this entirely traditional rendition of Viura (aka Macabeo) is aged for four years in the house-made American oak barrels, fined with egg-whites, racked twice annually, bottled unfiltered and left another 4-plus years before commercial release. The result is a pale wonder of insurgent aromatic glory, tranquil complexity and endless length. Drink it now or keep it 30 more years. Allocated.