Redolent of red fruits, tomato and mint, equal parts rustic and refined, this earthy, lively red bears no resemblance to the current “international” style of Rioja, nor to the pale, oaky, “smooth” overcropped wines of the 1970’s. Cubillo stands out in today’s wine universe for the mannerliness and clarity of its expression and its unmistakable class. In warm years such as 2009, it doesn’t exhibit any particular excess of ripeness.