For her red “Pi” wine, Emanouella had the inspired idea to leave 30% of the grapes on the vine until very ripe, at which point they were blended with the rest. The result is a hugely-coloured, unsulphured and unfiltered wine that smells uncannily like really top Chinon but is elegant and lithe on the palate, with a resurgent saltiness in the tail. Not the least remarkable feature of the wine is its 12% alcohol level.