It is a given that Xinomavro evokes Nebbiolo more than anything, but Giorgios’ wine reminds us unavoidably of Côte Rôtie. A heady blend of peppers, olives and Syrah spice evoke the Mistral rather than zephyrs. But then those reassuring tannins in the tail remind us of where we are, while the relatively sumptuous fruit suggests a potential for generosity that not all Naoussa offers in its youth. Those of you who remember fondly the great Uranos of Thimiopoulos will find a kinship here.