It is hardly a surprise that, when Stéphane turned his attention to this local speciality, he would take it to an altogether different level than it was used to. Most of France’s great wine regions put their own twist on the Vin Doux Naturel model, and the Jura’s is suitably local. The red version derives from Pinot Noir, spiked with one-third Marc du Franche-Comté and left to age for two years in small oak barrels. The result is a splendid sweet wine that somehow preserves the unique savory tang of the Jura. Marvellously spicy and insinuating, it makes an unusual aperitif, among other purposes.