Les Combins is perhaps not intrinsically superior in quality to, for instance, La Cailloute. But it always has a degree of velour and depth that are hard to resist. Simultaneously weighty and buoyant, with a ravishing scent of cedar and cocoa. Pure class. And 2016 is in the lineage of such classic “pleasure” years as 2009, 2001 and 1999 (the last of these was sensationally vibrant and intact when drunk recently).