Nothing warms the cockles of our hearts like a well-aged Bordeaux from a top vintage at a bargain price. This barrel-chested beauty makes a mockery of 2003 doubters. The incontestably ripe Merlot fruit still packs a lot of primary power, but there is a sense of structure and a surge of saltiness beneath that lend the wine a seriousness that commands respect. Philippe bought this vineyard in 1979, and he holds a special affection for it. We ourselves have always had a soft spot for the Côtes de Castillon and consider it the pick of the Côtes de Bordeaux. This wine has many, many years ahead of it. It was the most compelling of several vintages tasted for current drinking.