Kydonitsa is as local a grape as can be, as it is essentially unknown outside this corner of the Peloponnese, known as Lakonia. The name translates as “little quince”, which is appropriate to the puckerish, appley tones it offers. Blended with the broader-shouldered Assyrtiko, it makes for a compellingly suave and fine white, which is “Spartan” only in its understated strength, not in its quotient of vinous pleasure, which is considerable.