Jaded by a succession of uninteresting Vouvrays, we called "Eureka" on discovering Domaine de la Robinière (named for the false acacia whose roots, centuries later, still punch through the cave ceilings below). Vincent Raimbault, disarmingly quiet and modest, took over the property in 1980 (his great-grandfather acquired the house and cave in 1904), and his son Julien, who joined as winemaker in 2009, represents the fifth generation. The domaine's character is methodical and unhurried, integrated more into its troglodyte heritage than the modern world: people lived entire lives inside these tuffeau caves, and to an extent, so does Raimbault, using the constant 12°C temperatures for office, cuisine, sparkling production, and cellaring. The range runs from bone-dry still Chenin to sparkling to wines of a concentration that surpasses Sauternes, and the library extends back over six decades. The wines bespeak exceptional seriousness: beauty and purity of fruit, and faith in tradition.