Crete is the largest island in the Mediterranean, wide enough that the wines of Chania in the west diverge sharply from those of Heraklion, which is reason enough to carry a second Cretan estate. Twin brothers Yiannis and Manos Pateromichelakis are olive farmers first, speaking the thick dialect of western Crete, working land their family has farmed since around 1750. Wine ran in the family until economic circumstances pushed them to olives in 1930; the twins went back to it in 2005, rebuilding a small winery by hand among the village's restored stone houses. Most of the fruit comes off Domata, a loam plateau at 300 meters reachable only by a narrow track. The reds are most of the reason to come, above all the native Romeiko; that said, the sea-breezed site also delivers an Assyrtiko with real cut. What these two olive men coax from their grapes is startling.